While climbing we use different types of muscles depending on the requirements placed on our body. Different types of muscle recruitment require different fuel sources (ie substrates) and the type utilized determines which energy system we’re “in”.
Energy Systems Overview
Capacity vs. Power in Training
When we train endurance it is important to understand the relationship between capacity (size of the gas tank) and power (quality of the fuel) and use these concepts to meet the needs of our training. Below are the “quadrants” under which training capacity or power within our different energy systems exists.
Power Endurance: Fatigue Management for Rock Climbers – Steve Bechtel
Training for Climbing – Eric Horst
A Rock Climber’s Training Manual – Michael and Mark Anderson